太平山顶有一块蟾蜍石

(一)

只剩两个多月了:邱吉尔的酒馆关门,喝不完的啤酒运回伦敦;接着,牧童遥指的酒家高高挂起灯笼、挂起酒旗,一埕埕的董酒飘散着幽幽的芳香。这个时候,北京、台北、香港的报纸杂志纷纷函电约稿,要你的笑声,要你的泪影,要你的回忆,要你的感想,要你的恐惧,要你的兴奋,要你的惆怅,要你的企盼。杯盘狼藉之后,添酒回灯之前,历史的倒影撒满港九之间的海面。维多利亚女王曳地的长裙缓缓消失在皇后大道中的拐弯处,邓小平的布鞋悄悄步上会展中心那边的舞台,文武百官亦步亦趋。一瞬间,你想到的是,W H Auden一九三八年咏香港的诗句:

Its leading characters are wise and witty,Their suits well tailored,and they wear them well,Have many a polished parable to tell about the mores of a trading city.

(二)

还回借来的地方。还回借来的时间。一九七七年,Edward Heath 在Travels,People and Places in My Life说,他在香港问人家说,有什么话要我带回英国吗?他们异口同声答道:“有,不要阻止我们展示我们在香港做出来的成绩”(“Yes,”they said in chorus."don't stop us showing how well we can do in Hong kong")。第二天晚上,他碰到一位年轻的英国人,看到了另外一种心情。那个英国人告诉他说:“不能再这样不停的赚钱了,他们这样搞太不健康了。不能再让他们这样搞下去了。”希斯的原文写得很生动:

"It's got to be stopped,it's got to be stopped," he said.

"What's this?" I asked,fearing some frightful scandal was about to be revealed.

"All this money marking has got to be stopped,"he said."it's not healthy for them.They mustn't be allowed to go on runing things this way."

(三)

可是,鲁平说:“到了一九九七年七月一日,你们一觉醒来,将会发现窗外飘五星旗和你们的紫荆花区旗,但除此之外,香港还是原来的香港”:炒楼炒股的照样炒楼炒股,赚钱发达的照样赚钱发达。香港第二十八位总督彭定康前几天在一个商人午餐会上也说:“世界吹起消沉悲观的风气,欧洲、英国甚至在一定程度上美国的政治都受其感染;香港幸而没有这种心态。在欧洲、在美国,靠到处证明事无可为就能谋生;谈论事无可为的明证者,生计尤其大佳。”(“I think that what Hong Kong happily lacks is that sort of world weary cynicism which has had such an effect,I think, on European and British and to some extent on American politics.You can make a living in Europe or America proving that nothing can be done.you can make an even better living,commenting on proving that nothing can be done”)。香港美丽的传奇就这样在酒馆里的红灯绿酒之间流传,像神话。於是,你想到另一则神话:香港山脚下的蟾蜍石一寸一寸向上挪动,挪到太平山顶的那一天,香港也就回归中国了。那是好多好多年前在香港教书的许地山教授说的。